By the time an hour had passed, my patience was wearing thin as I waited for my host’s friend to meet me at my Istanbul apartment, another Home Exchange. I had just arrived on an overnight train from Bulgaria, and took another hour to get from the train station to where I was staying in Kadiköy, on the Asian side of the city. It was chilly, I was hungry and needed coffee, I still had my backpack, and just wanted to get settled.
I finally decided to walk up the street to grab a cup of coffee and the most delicious custard tart (I had two).
Of course, just when I ordered, I received a message from my contact, Dilan: “Where are you?” She insisted on meeting me at the coffee shop and within moments all sense of frustration disappeared. After apologizing profusely for being late, she made me feel welcome and relaxed and assured me I would love Istanbul. I learned a bit about her life (happily single mom of two teenage boys, works several jobs, and is generally a very cool person anyone would want to hang out with).
When I told Dilan I was from Rhode Island, a voice from the next table said, “Where in Rhode Island are you from?” The woman had a friend who lived there and had been several times. She currently lived in Dubai but was buying a house in Istanbul where she was born. Within moments we were all talking like we were old friends.
Over the next five days, mostly in the rain and cold, I discovered how patient Istanbul is. Istanbul is patient with the millions of tourists it receives from all over the world. No one shouts at us when we accidentally enter a mosque through the wrong entrance, missing the giant sign for the tourist entrance. There’s no sign of frustration when we walk around eating every kind of treat, forgetting that many are fasting during the final days of Ramadan.
Forgot to take off your shoes at the entrance of the hammam (Turkish bath)? No worries, you will receive polite instructions and be shown the cubbies that are clearly marked at the entrance before the attendant wipes up your muddy footprints. Can’t find the entrance to the underground cistern museum you want to explore? A random guy on the street will walk you there and wish you a pleasant visit – and, yes, he’ll ask you to stop by his cousin’s store after the museum, but you don’t have to.
By my fifth and final day in Istanbul, I had taken on some of the patient attitudes of the locals. The rain and cold really didn’t bother me. In fact, it added a different dimension to Istanbul that I would not have seen otherwise.
I slowed down, stopped to pet a few of the many well-cared-for street cats that the city is known for, paused for tea several times a day, prayed in mosques and lit candle offerings in churches.
I even relaxed enough to let a man scrub nearly every inch of my body, twist my limbs into knots, and pound and stretch me like I was a ball of pizza dough. He was shocked at the layers that came off my skin and I left the hammam lighter and freer and, I think, younger.
Despite news of terror and destruction seeping in from the world, I yearned for the sense of serenity and reminder of a higher power that came five times a day during the call to prayer. Even in a crowded square with rain falling, the Arabic words enveloped me in a feeling of peace.
On one ferry a man from Oman shouted “Why war?” when I answered his question of where I’m from. He then said, “We just want peace,” and grabbed my hand in his as he emphasized the point over and over. He smiled warmly and continued to shake my hand when I said that we want peace as well.
In Istanbul and around the world, people are waiting patiently, and praying, for peace.
Click on the first image to open the gallery.
March 24, 2026 @ 14:09
Hey Tim
I’m am loving all your wonderful stories about places I will probably never visit !!
All the best and safe travels .
Jenny Esposito ( Kathy and Jeff’s friend from NC)
March 26, 2026 @ 00:35
Thanks for following along, Jenny! I’ll be sure to have some Kathy and Jeff stories to tell from Greece.
March 24, 2026 @ 14:23
Another wonderful and evocative blog with great photos. Love being able to come along with you at least some of the way.
March 26, 2026 @ 00:35
It’s great to have you here in spirit!
March 24, 2026 @ 15:00
You take the most amazing photographs, Tim! Thanks for keeping us in the loop!
Pam
March 26, 2026 @ 00:36
My pleasure!
March 24, 2026 @ 17:59
More astonishing pictures, just remarkable! I’m afraid that combination of persistent cold and rain would have done me in! Take care.
March 26, 2026 @ 00:36
Having amazing coffee shops and bakeries on every block makes it easier.
March 24, 2026 @ 21:24
I was in Istanbul a few years ago and I found the people there filled with hospitality and I loved the beauty of the mosques. there is so much to see and learn there. We can compare notes and share photos when you return. I don’t remember cats however… safe travels Tim. We miss you.
March 26, 2026 @ 00:37
I didn’t know you were such a world traveler, Madeline! Miss you, too.
March 24, 2026 @ 22:37
It is so wonderful to read about Muslim culture in this difficult world! I love knowing it is Peace the same peace I want! I am so thankful that I know you, that you are such a prolific writer and I love you so much!
March 26, 2026 @ 00:39
Thanks for inspiring me, Christine! Love you, too.
March 25, 2026 @ 09:55
When I read your blog, I can still feel like I am traveling with you and I thank you for every experience that I’ve had and will do again. Thank you for all the candles. You’ve lit in so many countries for me. Same temperature as we have here. hope it gets warmer XOX Vicky Ann
March 26, 2026 @ 00:43
Oh, I feel your presence in every moment and try to take on some of your approach to people as I go through each day. Not easy without you!
April 4, 2026 @ 06:47
Beautiful pictures, Tim! Loving the posts and adventures as usual!
April 7, 2026 @ 15:08
Thanks, Lori.
April 6, 2026 @ 13:02
What a wonderful account of Istanbul, Tim!
April 7, 2026 @ 15:09
Thanks, Parke!